Good Morning from Baghdad, A City of Peace

September 25^, 2013, Baghdad, Iraq

We were received by one of the young Iraqi volunteers, who took us to the hotel. As soon as we went out on Baghdad’s streets, I felt a sense of familiarity. We drove to the hotel on the morning’s rush hour. We were exhausted, but extremely happy to be in Baghdad. We hadn’t slept much, as our flight was in the middle of the night. Baghdad had the air of any other of the Arab capitals, Amman, Beirut, and Cairo; except for all the checkpoints and military cars.

Once we got to the hotel, all our colleagues were already waiting; they were really happy to see us. It was very emotional, a meeting of old and new friends, that can’t believe they are reunited despite difficult conditions. We joined part of the last day training on advocacy for Iraqi activists, some of our colleagues from Spain had organized the training to strengthen the skills of activists that are organizing campaigns for human rights in Iraq, teaching them communication skills, listening, team work, and how to build strategies, organize resources and identify needs.

The day was slow, with many of the international activists arriving at different times. I stayed in the training listening to my colleagues from the Save the Tigris campaign, and how they identified resources and needs, set goals, and timelines, and then developed strategies to achieve the desired goal.

Then, I went to take a nap, and then joined the group once more. The young volunteers were ready and eager to help, if they saw that I was listening, they will come close to me and started to translate what had being said in Arabic.

If I try to describe these young Iraqis, they are not different to other youth around the world. Well, the only difference might be that they have a different appreciation about life. The sense that they are here today, but they don’t know if they will be here tomorrow. They are children of the war, the latest war; some of them were so young, that they might not remember how things were before the war. Yet, this experience has transformed them into what they are and what they believe, that Iraq can be a place of freedom and peace. You only have to sit with them to feel their positive vibrations. Some days ago, when I opened my Facebook, one of my Iraqi friends post read: Good Morning from Baghdad of peace- Sabah al khair min Baghdad al Salaam. I just smiled and I thought: this is why I have to go to Baghdad.

I’m not saying there are no risks; there are risks in every decision you make. When I went to Palestine, when I participated in a peaceful demonstration in Beit Ommar that was teargased by Israeli soldiers, when I went to south Iraq, Basra, Babel, Nasriya, Najaf, all these times there were risks, but I was with locals and I felt protected by them. There is no sense of security that a convoy, a tank, or armed guards can give you; on the contrary, they make you a target. I felt safer wearing a hijab, or an abayah (a traditional black women dress) and following the locals’ advice. Three months ago, I was in Babel, and saw the Babilonian Lion, the Ishtar Gate (the replica, the original is at a German museum), went to Ur, sat by the Euphrates and the Tigris River, navigated on the Mesopotamian marshes, and felt completely safe, trusting my colleagues and knowing they will put me in any danger.

In the next few days I hope to see another Baghdad, a Baghdad full of energy and hope, of dreams of peace and unity. That might not be the Baghdad portrayed in the media, because what they mostly show is blood and killings. I think the mainstream media will not show news of the Iraqi Social Forum, but I will try to convey this other Baghdad through my experience, my thoughts and feelings as I take part in this historic event with the slogan “Another Iraq is Possible.”

The anxiety of the trip has gone, and now I am happy to be in Baghdad, to show solidarity with Iraqis, to support their work and to bring a message from abroad that Iraqis are not forgotten, the work of justice is not easy, but that they are not alone. There are people out there doing the same in their own countries, because the work of building a country relies on the citizens of that country. Democracy comes, not with occupation by a foreign country, but when its citizens work actively to build a strong civil society that can support democratic institutions. How do you build democracy in a country destroyed by war, that is using religion as an instrument of division? You have to stop supporting the propaganda that uses terror and sectarianism and support that part of society that believes in the values of inclusiveness, social justice, freedom of expression, workers rights, and the protection of the environment. These are the principles that the Iraqi Social Forum promotes. These are the values that Iraqi activists have been working hard to shape, using sports, art and culture to unite Iraqis. These are the things I believe that will hold Iraq together and that is why I came to Baghdad, because I believe that if we support these principles, a peaceful Iraq can be a reality.

A Journey to the First Iraqi Social Forum: Another Iraq is Possible

For the next 4 days I will be in Baghdad, and I would like you to see a different city through my eyes. Not a city of daily terror attacks, and sectarian violence, but a Baghdad that is working for peace, justice and human rights, a Baghdad that is not shown in mainstream media, a Baghdad, that I like to trust and believe will be the new Baghdad. If you are willing to wash away your stereotypes and open your eyes and heart, you might see a more realistic Baghdad. Join me in my journey to the first Iraqi Social Forum: Another Iraq is possible.

Day One: Arriving in Baghdad, motives, fears and hopes

For the first few hours since we landed in Baghdad International Airport, I couldn’t stop thinking: I’m finally in Baghdad, wow, I really am in Baghdad. It was the first time that I set foot in Baghdad in my 3 years living and working in Iraq. Actually, it felt more exciting than scary. Exciting, because I always had this picture of a majestuous Baghdad its old history as being the capital of the Muslim World during the Abbasid Empire, with the Tigris River at its centre, and much more because I would get to hear from young people about their idea to build a new Iraq and get to share my own ideas with them. Scary, because of the high risks I knew I was taking by being here, but I couldn’t turn my back on Iraqis when they most needed me. The work of peace and justice is neither safe nor easy, but that is exactly why Iraqis need global solidarity, and people to stand by them, to hold their hand as they work to build a strong civil society. As a team, we decided that the reasons to go were stronger than the reasons to stay in our own countries. The initial delegation was of around 50 people, but in the end, 15 people were ready to go.

Even though I was influenced by media reports of increased violence, I was feeling very strongly about coming to Baghdad. In fact, I always wanted to come, but because of visa issues, it was not possible. After all, 10 million of Iraqis live in Baghdad, and I was convinced that Baghdad was something more than terrorist attacks, and bombs. I wanted to show my solidarity with Iraqis, which live every day and work for human rights, under very difficult conditions. The few weeks before the forum there had been intense bombings all over the country, yet the preparations and solidarity for the Iraqi Social Forum were always there. Both internationals and Iraqis were busy with risk assessments, lots of logistics, and after all this, we were finally here in Baghdad, it was a little bit surreal.

It was amazing to see that what we had been working for more than 6 months was becoming a reality. A group of young volunteers had been trained on translation, and will become for the next couple of days, our voice, and our way to convey solidarity to Iraqi civil society. When you meet these young people you realize that another Iraq is in front of your eyes. To see the leadership and the incredible hard work transforms any preconceived views that you could have of Iraq. Young, smart, with impeccable English skills and demonstrating their leadership and capacity, just if you give them a chance.

The Social Forum Process

For those of you who are not familiar with the social forum process, it started in Porto Alegre, Brazil in 2001, with the first World Social Forum, as an alternative space for individuals, groups, organizations and those who believe in the principles of social justice and human rights including political, civil, social, economic, and cultural rights. The social forum platform is a space to promote  alternative answers to world economic problems in opposition to the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland.

The Iraqi Social Forum is one of the regional forums that are organized in different regions and countries and is supported by international solidarity activists. It comes in the context of global economic crisis, the Arab Spring, together with the political crisis and the confusion in the identity of the Iraqi state, which is dominated by disputes for power. There is no attention to dialogue, or to building partnerships, and fostering cooperation. Iraqis continue to suffer from increasing poverty and unemployment, unequal access to opportunities, poor infrastructure, and a lack of provision of social services such as electricity, medical care and education. The Iraqi budget increases and with that, financial and administrative corruption without establishing concrete achievements for Iraqi citizens, support for real development, due to the political crisis and the struggle for power and money, as well as sectarianism. Overlapping legal authorities and the questionable independence of the judiciary. Weakness in enforcing the rule of law, as well as international conventions, treaties, and agreements, and continuing violations of human rights, especially freedom of the press and freedom of expression.

In the forum there will be more than 140 self-organized events in Iraq and solidarity activities organized all around the world. The Extended Iraqi Social Forum started with events in Bangladesh and Pakistan on the 17th of September. Many international organizations will connect with activists at the Iraqi Social Forum through Skype (contact: isf.extensionteam) and watch several sessions on streaming (check the streaming window on http://iraqsf.org/).

Read the Forum’s Statement here.

Notes from the Field in Iraq: Reflections in a Time of Violence

As I sit in front of my computer, reading the news about the escalation in violence in Iraq, my heart fills with sadness. According to UN reports, more than a thousand people have been killed in May. Iraq is not a distant, Middle East country, full of Muslim extremists. It is the place I live, work, and wake up every morning. I live in Sulaimaniya, far from the violence, but have colleagues and friends in Baghdad and I hear their frustration, and feel their fears of an escalating conflict. I also know that is it not a simple Sunni/Shia conflict as it is portrayed in the mainstream media.  It is full of complications and question marks.

There are two main political considerations: domestic and regional. On the one hand is the failure of the Shia/Sunni/Kurdish groups to develop a form of government that reduces marginalization and exclusion of some groups and instead creates division. Maliki’s centralization and consolidation of power undermines the authority of other groups, which serves only to weaken democracy and increases the probability of conflict. ‪There is also the increased use of identity politics to access political power. Maliki on one side is accusing the Parliament of obstructing his government performance and accuses the legislature of the security breakdown. On the other the Speaker of the Parliament, Nujaifi is accusing Maliki of controlling security and political decisions. Then the regional game: the inability to reach internal solutions leads to increased power of radical groups which see internal conflict as part of the wider conflict and gives legitimacy to the Sunni-Shia narrative. Then you have Baghdad accusing the Kurdish Regional Government (KRG) of being secessionist and using Turkey to overcome the drawbacks of its land locked and troubled relationship with Baghdad. Increased tensions between Ankara and Baghdad are because of Ankara’s support to the KRG. Baghdad claims that KRG’s autonomy threatens Iraq’s unity.

As a human rights activist living in Iraq, it is tough to see that you work every day to protect other activists, to advance rights, to demand freedom, and yet, the situation seems all but better. What have politicians and people in power put forward as solutions? One side accuses the other and they just fuel the sectarian speech. They are not ready to leave their political differences aside to work for a safe, and democratic Iraq. Why, because they benefit by this state of chaos, they get to stay in power and continue to rip personal benefits at the expense of Iraqis.

I call for Iraqis to stop thinking on what divides them and start thinking on what unites them. To put an end to sectarianism, division, and ethnic divide. This is not a call for arms, is a call to re-think the Iraq that we want to see and live in. What is the Iraq we wish to leave for future generations? Iraqis have lived at war for 40 years. They are resilient and strong people. In fact, I am working on a daily basis with great people who want to advance their country, have equal gender rights, a democratic, and a participatory democracy.

There are people in Baghdad, Erbil, Basra and in every Iraqi city that work every day to advance rights and freedoms in Iraq. I work with some of them.  I hear their frustrations during this time of increasing violence; their work like mine is being tested. Moreover, some of my colleagues are working on an Iraqi Social Forum under the theme: Another Iraq is Possible. Now, more than ever, they need our support and solidarity. To plan such an event is very challenging under the current circumstances. Now more than ever, they need international solidarity, to share experiences from others that have succeeded, that have rebuilt their countries, that have overcome differences and have decided live together.  

What has Maliki’s government brought to Iraq? Peace? Development? Democracy? Democracy does not happen overnight (as some might have thought), it is a process. In order to have democracy there must be the economical and social infrastructure in place to support it. That requires people participation and people need to feel safe, and that they have a legitimate government that is able to protect them. This will not be achieved under the banner of sectarianism or accusations but united and working to bring about justice and an end to violence.

I really believe another Iraq is possible, I believe in the power of people. Iraq has young people full of dreams, people who believe in human rights and justice, and the environment, who do not buy this sectarian propaganda. Young, intelligent people that are capable of constructing their future, and using Iraqi resources to the best of its potential, and to compete in the global market of ideas. These are the kind of people whom the government is afraid of. Lets not be afraid, let’s start this revolution of ideas and to think how to rebuild our country. Unite and conquer, that should be our banner for a new Iraq.

Basra Peace Run: Yes, Yes to Peace-- Basra, Iraq

Imagine this: running in the streets of Basra, Iraq in the name of peace and non-violence. Retaking the streets. The slogan: Basrah, city of peace…Iraqis discussing the issues that most matter to them. This is not a product of my imagination, it actually happened last weekend and it was historical. The best part; I was part of it.

Running Line, Basra Peace Run, Basra, Iraq. Photo by Laura Battaglia

Basra Peace Run, Basra, Iraq. Photo by Laura Battaglia

Young people in Basrah took back their streets through a peace run. For some hours the streets of Basrah felt the sound of peace. Being the only woman running felt initially scary, but special. All people around me, especially children were encouraging, including the police guarding the run, which pushed their guns aside and were filming with their mobiles, smiling and affirming that peace was in the air. The participants were chanting: naam, naam li salam! Yes, yes to peace!

Award for the slowest and fastest runner of my category.
Basra Peace Run, Basra, Iraq. Photo by Laura Battaglia

Everybody won the race, the people of Basrah won and peace won. For sure this is the start of many other sports events reaffirming that Iraq is moving towards a future of peace.

At the same time in the north of Iraq, in the Kurdistan Region’s capital, Erbil, 5000 people representing 40 countries ran on a similar event.

Sometimes imagining the impossible can make things possible. As I was arriving to the finishing line, an Iraqi man came to me and smiling gave me a thumbs up and with it handed me a medal from the Iraqi National Football Team, as an affirmation of peace. Eventually I got another medal. I guess I was the only one in may category. I felt very blessed and humbled.

Basrah, once the garden of Eden, now recovering from decades of war, a city of peace with its beautiful people and a symbol of what the rest of Iraq will be in the future.

Running for Peace in Basra. Photo by Laura Battaglia