Ecological Challenges in Iraq: New Movements, New Possibilities

Last week I was speaking in Oslo at the Ecological Challenges Conference in a panel titled: "New Movements, New Possibilities." The conference gathered academics and activists from around the world to exchange ideas between academics doing research on ecology and the environment and activists doing work on the ground. It was a great opportunity to present the work of the Save the Tigris Campaign and to present new and emerging environmental movements in the Middle East.

Here is my intervention on the panel that I shared with Dan Chodorkoff, Havin Güneser and Mark Luccarelli:

"Ecology, democracy, participation, climate and movements. These are themes that emerged during the weekend at this conference. yesterday, I tales about ecological movements in the Middle East, and I spoke about the case of the Iraqii Marshe and the campaign to protect the Tigris and I couldn't speak about that without speaking about solidarity.

In our campaign we focus on the protection of the Iraqi Marshes form development projects like Ilisu dam, which is also tied to the protection of water resources, culture and people. In Turkey, the dam will destroy ancient history of the Kurds and will flood thousands of years of civilisation. That is why we have built solidarity networks with Kurdish/Turkish activists. We have joined because we have a common fight. The dam not only challenges ecology but also democracy. It's being built without consultation with local communities, let alone communities in Iraq that will be affected. 

Turkey is trying to consolidate regional power by using water,  and in doing so it is appropriating resources that are shared. 

In building new movements the role of solidarity is key, as it strengthens local struggles and empower communities when they see that they are not alone. For example, we have been at the Ilisu dam site protesting with locals who otherwise are called terrorists because Turkey considers the dam an national security issue. 

In Iraq new democratic and civil platforms are developing that are also built in the principle of solidarity like the Iraqi Social FOrum. It is exactly one year since we were in Baghdad with a delegation of international activists at the Iraqi Social Forum. I see hope for new movements in young activists that want to build change in their country and the North-South cooperation and solidarity is a direct way od supporting the emergence of new movements in the South. There are challenges and it is a long term commitment but we are ale irresponsible to support those who are fighting in more difficult, and less democratic countries."

Water and its Infrastructure are not Weapons of War, Protect Civilians’ Right to Water in Iraq

As ISIS is using water infrastructure in its war on Iraq the Save the Tigris and Iraqi Marshes Campaign calls for international attention and action to stop a potential humanitarian crisis that could stem from the destruction of water infrastructure in Iraq.

Tuesday, 15 July 2014

The Save the Tigris and Iraqi Marshes Campaign is concerned that parties involved in the current conflict in Iraq and Syria might resort to using water and its infrastructure as a weapon of war. Over the past weeks, several news stories have reported that parties in the conflict, be they related to the government or to insurgents, may be marking the water infrastructure as possible military targets in the struggle to gain control over Iraq’s water supply.  Insurgents now control some upper parts of the Euphrates and Tigris Rivers in Iraq. Whoever controls the water installations in the north, whether dams, desalination plants, sewage or other aspects of the infrastructure, can control the water supply to Baghdad and the southern parts of the country. Should a decrease - or a cut-off - in water for Southern Iraq occur, there would be huge crises in health and sanitation.

Water from the Euphrates and Tigris rivers is shared by Turkey, Syria and Iraq. Over the past years Turkey has taken control over water flowing into Syria and Iraq through the use of big dams — without any negotiations with the governments of Syria and Iraq.  This has resulted in a water shortage, especially for the Iraqi people. The population of all of Iraq, including Kurdistan, is completely dependent upon two dams in northern Iraq. These dams are the two largest contributors to hydro-electric power in Iraq. The area around the Haditha dam (Euphrates) is currently the site of an insurgent offensive, while the Mosul Dam (Tigris), just 45 miles outside of Mosul city, is now on the frontline of the conflict. Both dams could be used to control access to drinking water and water used for farm irrigation. The electricity produced by the dams, upon which the whole country is dependent, is also vulnerable. If dam failure occurs, which is not unthinkable in such a fierce conflict, large areas might be flooded, including parts of Mosul and other cities.

 Over the past few months, areas between Baghdad and Fallujah, such as the Abu Ghrib district, suffered from flooding after insurgents took control of Falujha dam, a small dam near Baghdad. This has also created water scarcity in many Iraqi cities south Baghdad. More recently, insurgents cut water provision from Mosul to many towns of the Niniveh plains. Enclaves where minorities live, such as Qaraqosh with its 40.000 inhabitants, have been left without any water source and without electricity to pump it from local wells.

 Thus, the Iraqis now live with the compound fear of both a water shortage and of flooding.

 This Campaign opposes the deliberate manipulation of water as a means to steer or to gain control over the crises. This kind of action directly violates international humanitarian law. Access to water is a fundamental human right which should not be treated as a weapon. This Campaign also believes that targeting cultural heritage sites on the rivers of Iraq should be avoided at all costs. During the 1980s parts of the Marshes were drained in the Iraq-Iran conflict and the negative impact of this drainage continues to be felt today. We therefore ask all parties involved in the crisis to protect all cultural end environmental heritage sites in Iraq.

 The Save the Tigris and Iraqi Marshes Campaign calls upon all parties involved in the conflict:

1. to refrain from using water, and water-related infrastructure, as a weapon of war.
2. to guarantee access to safe water to all people of Iraq.

 The Save the Tigris and Iraqi Marshes Campaign calls upon Iraqi (central and Kurdish) and Syrian authorities:

1. to provide protection for the water infrastructure in their territories by seeking out and cultivating an open dialogue with local communities and local actors in areas of conflict. 
2. to respect their obligation to provide basic human rights, including water, to civilians in conflict areas without discrimination.
3. to protect all cultural and environmental heritage sites on Euphrates and Tigris Rivers.

 The Save the Tigris and Iraqi Marshes Campaign calls upon the Security Council and the international community:

1. to be accountable to their responsibilities as established by the UN Charter to protect international peace by calling for an international forum to discuss threats related to water in Iraq and Syria, involving regional actors and the Turkish government.
2. to hold accountable any party which inflicts damages that contribute to humanitarian crises due to the use of water and its infrastructure as a military instrument.

 The Save the Tigris and Iraqi Marshes Campaign also calls upon local communities, national and international organizations and activists to monitor the conditions of Iraq’s rivers and water infrastructure in order to provide an early warning system should problems arise, and to document any damages or war crimes.

 For more information write to icssi.project@gmail.com , or contact:

 Ismaeel Dawood: +39 3291345117---Iraqi Civil Society Solidarity Initiative

 Ercan Ayboga: +491637577847---Initiative to Keep Hasankeyf Alive---e.ayboga@gmx.net

Johanna L.Rivera: Save the Tigris Campaign--- johanna.rivera56@gmail.com

International Activists Meet in Baghdad to Discuss Legal Strategies to Protect the Tigris River

For Immediate Release-Baghdad 26^th of September

Baghdad, Iraq—Once the cradle of civilizations and agricultural haven, now Iraq’s land has dried significantly mostly due to man-made causes. For the past 20 years upstream dams in the Euphrates have reduced Iraq’s water income. Now the most important water lifeline in the country, the Tigris River, is being threatened by the construction of Ilisu dam within Turkey’s GAP project that violates international and Iraqi law. The Ilisu dam construction will have catastrophic effects on the lives of Iraqis, who suffer increased drought and loss of lands due to lack of water.

In this context and within the framework of the Iraqi Social Forum happening in Baghdad, the Save the Tigris Campaign is organizing the session: “Water Crisis between Iraq and Neighboring Countries: The Ilisu Dam, Exploring Legal Strategies in Iraq”, on 27 September 2013 in Baghdad.  The aim of this session is to discuss legal instruments available inside Iraq and elsewhere to protect Iraq’ s right to water and the equitable shares of the Tigris River with Turkey. International activist together with Iraqi lawyers, are attending the meeting that will analyze legal instruments and propose ways to advocate the Iraqi government to increase their efforts to demand Iraq’s right to water.

While Turkey is one of only a handful of countries that have not ratified the 1997 United Nations Convention on the Law of the Non-Navigational Uses of International Watercourses, this does not mean that Turkey is not bound by those principles set out in the Convention, which reflect general obligations on all states under customary international law. Customary Law related to shared waters is clear in its principle to cause no harm. In that sense, Turkey, in building the Ilisu dam will cause adverse harm to neighboring states and is in violation of customary international law. In addition, Turkey has failed to conduct a transboundary environmental impact assessment that is a threshold duty under international law and did not consult with the communities directly affected by the dam, which is also customary law. With its judgment of 2010 in the Pulp Mills case, the ICJ has recognized that prior assessment of transboundary impacts is a requirement of international law where there is a risk that a proposed industrial activity may have a significant transboundary impact.

In addition, Turkey has engaged in bilateral agreements with Iraq on the use of shared watercourses, like the 1946 Treaty of Friendship and Neighborly Relations states that the government of Turkey agrees to inform Iraq of any projects in order to render such projects to serve the interests of both Turkey and Iraq. Even, if there were no such treaties between the two countries, that does not excuse Turkey from its international obligations.

The session will discuss if it possible to make a case against private companies/Banks or other parties involved in the dam construction/financing. Private companies and banks should be held accountable for their engagement in projects that fail to comply with international law and violate human rights. These European companies, specifically the Austrian company Andritz has continued to provide services and products despite being advised of the human rights and environmental harms resulting from the project, the controversial nature of the dam and despite previous consortiums having been dissolved due to potential human rights violations. Iraqi law might provide for the possibility to proceed legally against any private/public entity that causes harm.

The Ilisu dam case has not been resolved, and it is Iraq’s responsibility to deal with it wisely, as the consequences of not doing so would mean giving Turkey a free ticket with respect to the construction of other dams on the Tigris River, that could result in a disaster to Iraq’s economic development.

Save the Tigris Campaign is a regional advocacy campaign with partners in Turkey, Iraq, and internationally that works to raise awareness about the economic and environmental impacts of the Ilisu dam on Turkey and Iraq.

Save the Tigris and Iraqi Marshes Coalition:

1. Iraqi People Campaign to Save the Tigris, Iraq

2. Civil Development Organization, Iraq

3. Iraqi Civil Society Solidarity Initiative, Iraq

4. Initiative to Keep Hasankeyf Alive, Turkey

5. Corner House, UK

6. Counter Current, Germany

7. Un Ponte Per, Italy

Press Kit-Save the Tigris- Legal Strategies- September 2013 -Final

For more information Contact:

Ismaeel Dawood: 

Iraqi Civil Society Solidarity Initiative

Ercan Ayboga: 

e.ayboga@gmx.net

Initiative to Keep Hasankeyf Alive

Johanna L. Rivera:

 johanna.rivera56@gmail.com

Save the Tigris Campaign

###

Basra: The Venice of the Middle East?

June 25^th, Basra, Iraq

It was nine o’clock when we departed Suleimaniya, in the autonomous region of Kurdistan. The captain announced the temperature was 32 degrees; two hours later when we landed in Basra, it was 46 degrees. Basra is hot and dry, and it is said to be one of the hottest cities in the planet; coming from a tropical island, I am not used to it. Basra, the second largest city after Baghdad, is also the biggest port in Iraq. It is part of the historical Sumer and the proposed location of the Garden of Eden. It used to be called the "Venice of the Middle East" for its channels 

I am in Basra for the fourth time, this time to support local activists and to facilitate a series of seminar in four different Iraqi provinces to raise awareness about water issues in Iraq. The seminars are part of an advocacy campaign against the construction of construction of a mega dam project in the stretches of the Tigris River in Turkey; Ilisu Dam. Interestingly, Basra is the only Iraqi province where the two rivers, the Tigris and the Euphrates flow. They meet in Qurna, where they form the Shatt al Arab before entering to the Gulf. Basra is also the most affected by upstream dam projects in terms of quantity and quality of water.

Sitting besides me on the plane was Ali, from Baghdad. I asked him where we were exactly because I saw dry land as I looked out the window. He said that we must have passed Baghdad and with a nostalgic tone, he said, “Iraq was not always like this, before the wars, in the 1990’s Iraq was green. Something has happened on the weather.’ I mentioned that I worked on water issues and that I knew that the effects of upstream dams have a big role on this. I told him about a recent NASA study that pointed out to alarming rates of water depletion on the Tigris and Euphrates basin and about the global movements that are struggling against water privatization and mega projects around the world. I know, I am too intense, but he follows me.

One of the main topics of discussion in Basra is electricity. Almost like an obsession, everyone talks about electricity. Are we on the national grid, “watani” or on the generator, “mualid”? What we simply call electricity is divided into 2 parallel systems: national electricity running for 2 hours and a system of private generators that run 4-6 hours. There is electricity for 6 hours a day, or less and the rest of the time the electricity is supplied privately, for those who can afford it. This is particularly critical in the summer, when the temperature is unbearable (130 degrees Fahrenheit). The obsession is for a reason! This problem has affected the lives of Iraqis for the past 10 years. They have to pay vast amounts of money to buy amperes from the private generators.

Women and children suffer the most from this as they stay at home during the hot summer. Here in Iraq, any women can tell you how many amperes she needs to run her fridge and keep the house cool; something that only electricians would know in other parts of the world. When electricity changes back to the main “national grid” in the afternoon, Iraqis just want to relax and to take a nap, as sometimes they cannot sleep at night because it is too hot and uncomfortable to sleep. Basic needs like electricity that we in the west take for granted are the struggle of every Iraqi. It is hard to imagine that something as basic as electricity is lacking in an oil producing country as Iraq.

Basra has other basic infrastructure problems, like lack of waste management, and problems with water quality. On the first one, I am afraid I have not much information on why there is no proper waste management; all the streets are full of garbage and sewage water. On the second one, I have a lot to say, as it is the main reason of my travel to Basra. The water quality issues are mostly salinization of the water coming from the Euphrates and Tigris Rivers that form the Shatt Al Arab. This salinization is due mainly to decreased flow of the two rivers, causing the salty water from the gulf to enter into the river. The reasons are upstream damming and re-routing of the Tigris and Euphrates and its tributaries that feed into the rivers and push the salty water into the sea. Over the last 20 years, dam projects in Iran and Turkey have reduced the water of the Euphrates and the Tigris significantly; some studies reveal reductions of over 75% on the Euphrates. Iran has also dammed the Karun river that feeds directly and contributes around two thirds of the Shatt al Arab. This has caused tremendous damage to the water supply, agriculture and herding.

One of my friends in Basra is studying at the Marine Science Center in Basra. He is doing his research on a fish called Tinalosa Elisa, he is studying some sort of fish management. He goes to the sea with the fishermen, and he does different measurements like the size of the fish caught. He is also aware how the water problem affects the fishing industry. For example this fish goes from the sea to the fresh water to nest, so the fact that the sea is entering the river, means that now some fish have to go further upstream to lay their eggs. Some species are not able to adapt to these fast changes. He wanted to illustrate the salty water problem, so he got his pH, conductivity meter to show me. We measured three sources: tap water, RO filtered water and bottled water. Results were 1290 parts per million, 109 ppm and 42 ppm for bottled water. A difference of 30 times more salty from tap to bottled water. Which one would you drink?

Basra is highly militarized but has managed to be generally safe. There are checkpoints every 100 meters and people has gotten used to it. I think that they feel generally safe. The youth I spoke with in Basra, some of them university students said they are tired. They are tired of corruption, tired of the security situation, tired of unemployment, tired of the electricity problem. They are discouraged; they think there is little hope to solve their problems. They have adapted; if there is no electricity they resort to generators, they are always in survival mode. In spite of all the challenges of lack of infrastructure and services, people are very kind, always giving you a smile, always offering everything they have to make you feel at home.

In this context, the general perception of Iraqis is that the government is not in a position to demand other governments to give Iraq its fair share of water from the Tigris and Euphrates, when they cannot manage their own water or provide basic security or infrastructure to its citizens. This is the bittersweet reality of Iraq and this is why I keep coming back to the south and feel that supporting local activists working for a democratic, more transparent and inclusive Iraq is essential.

Some pictures from my trip to Basra

Rivers Unite, Dams Divide: A Struggle to Protect Rivers and Preserve Life

“The struggle of the Mapuche, Hasankeyf and the Amazon, is a struggle to preserve the planet” Mapuche leader Moira Millan to Osman Baydemir, Mayor of Diyarbakir.

Mayalu, a young indigenous leader from the Matto Grosso communities in the Amazon holds a picture of a Hasankeyf mosque at the demonstration at the Ilisu construction site.

Last week I was in Diyarbakir together with an international delegation coming from as far as the end of the world. Indigenous leaders from Patagonia’s Mapuche, Amazon’s Kayapos, and Kenya’s Turkana people were part of an international rivers conference in Istanbul organized by Doga Dernegi, a local environmental organization. All of them had one thing in common: they were leaders of indigenous communities threatened by the construction of mega-dam projects and were there to show global solidarity with the people and the struggle against the Ilisu dam.

After the conference, the international delegation traveled to Diyarbakir and Hasankeyf to meet its people and politicians and to remind them of their responsibility to protect rivers and be the voice of their people. Mapuche leader Moira Millan told Osman Baydemir, Diyarbakir’s mayor that she had come from the end of the world to defend the Tigris River, “We stand in solidarity against the political and economical threats that are a threat to the continuity of peoples and cultures.” The mapuches have a long history in fighting to defend their land and rivers, Moira added: “To regain our freedom at the expense of the destruction of the planet is not true freedom, is the same logic that has enslaved us. I propose a toss for free rivers” and with a tea glass in hand, we all tossed for the world’s rivers.

A toss for rivers: Osman Baydemir Diyarbakir's mayor and mapuche leader Moira Millan

The mayor received us in a spirit of unity and solidarity, “Your presence here will raise awareness of millions and will create a network of solidarity.” “Dams are blocking natural flow of life” and he noted, “For investment to be true, it has to take human, environmental, social and cultural heritage at its center.” Speaking about the peace process he added, “The process at the moment is described as a ceasefire, it does not mean is a lasting peace. We need to guarantee under the constitution cultural and language rights. For a lasting peace, all groups should be given cultural and religious freedoms...Governments have to change policies towards nature, as long as forests are developed and rivers are dammed, it is not sustainable.” 

When I mentioned the Save the Tigris Campaign and civil society efforts in Iraq to increase awareness about the impact of upstream dams on Iraqi water resources, he was very happy. He mentioned that his city has started a pilot project of a waste treatment plant, to process the water before returning it back in the river, because it belongs to all the people living along the river. He encouraged cooperation through a recently launched initiative called “United Cities Local Governments,” which Diyarbakir is already a member, we could invite cities that lie along the river to develop stronger cooperation in projects. This could be an opportunity to work together towards solutions to the water issue. Later we moved to a square in the city for the showing of the Damocracy documentary. A lot of young people were there, especially curious about Joshua’s-the Turkana community leader- clothes and hat.

Joshua from the Turkana people in Kenya in Diyarbakir after the Damocracy documentary film

After the film, we had some time to share experiences and stories from our struggles that although different have many commonalities. Governments using violence and intimidation to undermine communities, displacement of already impoverished communities. Moira tells how in Argentina, the state is murdering indigenous people that oppose the way the state relates to nature and water. Two of her friends have been murdered. “It is very painful to think that tomorrow it can be me.”

An Unexpected Detour

Next day we headed to Hasankeyf, but before reaching the town, we made an unexpected detour. We went to the Ilisu dam construction site. There we had a peaceful demonstration where leaders from the indigenous communities held banners that read; “Rivers Unite; Dams Divide. Stop Belo Monte and Ilisu Dams” blocking the entrance. The international delegation joined local protesters in solidarity against the Ilisu dam. One of the messages from Joshua, representative of the Turkana people in Kenya was that “development needs to come within the social justice framework, if communities are involved in the initial stages, we will have consensus.”

International Delegation holding banners and blocking the entrance to the construction site of Ilisu dam

The image was powerful; a gathering of people from all over the world coming together to protect one of the rivers that gave birth to civilization; the Tigris River, separated by geography, language and culture, yet united in one voice, the voice of the river! When the delegation reached Hasankeyf after the protest, it was received with traditional music from Mesopotamia. We all walked towards the citadel, with music and displaying our message of rivers unite, and dams divide. Moira, the mapuche leader offered a traditional song from her people as a gift to the people of Hasankeyf.

Musicians from Hasankeyf receive the international delegation to traditional music from the area

After the long day, we were sitting in one of the cafes overlooking the Tigris River. Chief Megaron was next to me and I was just thinking about the big responsibility of this man to protect his community. They are around 6,000 people. I was talking to him in spanish and he was talking back in Portuguese. I pulled out my computer, and despite we were both tired,  I tried to explain the issue of salty water coming into the river in Basra, I showed him several maps, trying to convey the message, showing the confluence of the Tigris and Euphrates in the Shatt al Arab. He got it.

In the meantime, Moira went into the river, to listen to it, something that is common in the mapuche culture; people talk and listen to the river. She came saddened and her eyes watering. She said the river is strong, it will survive, but what humanity is doing to its rivers is horrible. 

The international delegation overlooking the Tigris river along with local residents and the mayor of Batman

It gives me a lot of energy when I meet people like Moira, Joshua, Chief Megaron, and Dicle, doing what it takes to protect water, and protect life itself. This more than a meeting was a peoples gathering, giving, and sharing. We shared music, our connection to water, our struggle, and our solidarity. Why do governments insist on solutions that are not lasting, not sustainable? Dams displace, destroy community ties, and biodiversity, and are NOT a form of clean energy. Dams life span is 70-100 years, and for that we want to kill thousands of years of civilization. The Tigris is the place where civilization itself started, with the Sumerians. Are we willing to give it away to be dammed and destroyed? Is this the form of development that we want? When a river dies, the spirit of its people die.

Women as powerful agents of change!

As we speak, the indigenous people in Brazil have re-occupied the Belo Monte construction site. They were ordered by the court to leave by May 30th, 4pm local time, but they have decided to stay, and are putting their lives at risk to protect their land and their water. The court has ruled to use force to removed them from the construction site. They are saying: “we will die, but we will not leave without being heard.” Again the same struggle, people against government, corporations and private interest. Nature and the environment against a powerful machinery of development, investments, loans and capitalism. Are they going to lose their lives or is the Brazilian president going to listen to these communities and find a peaceful solution to the conflict. It is their struggle; it is now our struggle.

Chief Megaron looking at the old bridge, while in Brazil, its own people continue to ocupy the Belo Monte dam site

A similar version of this post appeared on the Iraqi Civil SOciety Solidarity Initiative
at http://www.iraqicivilsociety.org/archives/1830

Journal from Iraq: Global Solidarity, Transboundary Water and the Challenging Work of Saving a River

May 2^nd, 2013, Sulaimaniya, Kurdistan, Iraq

I've been off writing for a long time. Lately,  a sense of overwhelming has won me. Since last March, I was extremely busy with a lot of travel, which I love, but I get tired and often sick. Working on an advocacy campaign to protect Iraq's right to water has been the most amazing experience of my life, personally and professionally, but also a very demanding  task both physically and emotionally. 

In March, I was in Tunis, for the World Social Forum and had the opportunity to share experiences with other water activists and community organizers from all over the world. We organized a session on global solidarity against water grabbing by mining and dam projects with other two groups from Turkey and Latin America. It was amazing and we got to meet people from Peru, Mexico, India, Turkey and share experiences on the same issues: water grabbing.  Then I went to Basra, to be part of the first green festival on the Iraqi Marshes. I was denied entry, and deported back to Turkey. 

In Tunis, at the Climate Space talking about our session on dams and mining projects

From there, I traveled to Hasankeyf to share our struggle with the people who's lives will be directly impacted by the Ilisu dam. People in Hasankeyf  have been living in limbo for the past 10 years due to lack of certainty about the project's plans.

View of the Hasankeyf Artukid Bridge and the Tigris River

At the Green Festival in Suleimaniya with material
about the Save Tigris Campaign

Then back in Iraq, April saw a rise in violence, killing of protestors, and activists and an increase in the sectarian divide. That is discouraging and makes you reflect if your work is worthy. If I think about my work, its exciting and unique. A friend asked me yesterday what does a normal day looks like. There is no normal day, but this is how one of my days might look like: I could be speaking to Iraqi activists about how to strategize for next awareness workshop on water issues in Iraq, talking to international law experts getting legal advice on how to make people/government/transnational companies accountable for human rights or environmental law violations related to  dams projects affecting Iraq. To academics on transboundary water issues between Turkey and Iraq and the impacts of dams on Iraqi water resources. To journalists, explaining the aim of our advocacy campaign, or to common people about the importance to take steps to demand politicians to take action to protect Iraqi water resources.

I could be on any stretch of the Tigris River in Turkey, or in Iraq, or in the Iraqi Marshlands visiting the communities that will be affected by dam projects and explaining the efforts to protect Iraq's water.

A woman on the Iraqi Marshes in Chibayish, Nasriya province. The marshes are located in three of the south provinces of Iraq, Nasriya, Missan and Basra. 

Kids playing on the banks of the Tigris River in Hasankeyf, Turkey. This town is full of historical sites and is threatened to be flooded by the construction of Ilisu dam. The campaign I work, is to raise awareness about the impacts of this dam in Iraq and Turkey.

Taking to Iraqi Media after one of our seminars in south Iraq

All this is super interesting, but is natural to be tired and even discouraged, because as colleagues from Mexico shared with us, “these are long and tiring fights.” It is easy to get discouraged when you see or hear in the news what politicians really prioritize here in Iraq. The Iraqi government’s priority is to crack on protests, increase sectarian division, exploit the country’s resources for their own interest, while keeping people hostage, to surrender to the power –in the case the Shia majority to Maliki because he is the sole protector of the Shia majority population- and to look to their own political interests:  to consolidate power. The name of the game is Fear. On the other side, Turkey continues to appropriate water that belongs to Iraqis.

On a hiking trip to Kani Shook, one of the amazing canyons in Suleimaniya.

So how do I keep my sanity and motivation? In Spanish, there is a saying: “There is no calamity that last 100 years, nor body that can resist it.” When I m overwhelmed, I try to go into nature. Here in the north of Iraq, there is amazing nature, canyons, rivers, and mountains. Being in nature helps me to forget and to relax.

I trust that Iraqi people soon realize that division and sectarianism are not ingredients to develop a democratic and inclusive society. They must stop being fearful, and start to challenge the structures that prevent development. After years of war and dictatorship, Iraqis must work together to build a place based on inclusion not division, transparency, not corruption, redistribution of wealth [and Iraq has big wealth], and justice and protection of their environment. When they understand that those who want to bring fear and terror are the ones that benefit from a terrified population, that keep their power by instilling fear, then breaking the cycle of fear, will set them free. That, of course has a price; it does not come the easy way. That is part of history, no people have been granted freedom and justice; they have fought for it. I thin we have lost many, probably too many and is time to recognise that violence and terror cannot last forever.

Meet Me in Hasankeyf: Culture, People and Politics in Hasankeyf

After our session on global solidarity against water grabs, I headed to south east Turkey, the Kurdistan of Turkey, to the region where the GAP project is being implemented to attend the Hasankeyf Ingathering (April 5-8th) and explore this ancient city under threat of being engulfed by the Tigris river and with it, to wash away its ancient history and the culture of Mesopotamia.

Kids enjoying a Sunday afternoon picnic by the river in Hasankeyf. Photo by Johanna L. Rivera

The town of Hasankeyf, located at the intersection of Mesopotamia and Anatolia, is a small village of 2,900 people on the banks of the Tigris River. Mesopotamia, from the Greek “the land between the two rivers”.  After the Arab conquest, the land was divided into two: the south was called Sevad or Iraq, and the north was called Al Jazeera- “island”. Excavation in Hasankeyf Cairn proved that this town was part of the Neolithic revolution, taking Hasankeyf 11,500 years back in history. For this reason it has been shortlisted for the Europa Nostra list of the "7 most endangered."

Hasankeyf in History

Hasankeyf was one of the major stops on the transport route during medieval times, that started from Diyarbakir, passing through Cizre and Mosul to Baghdad. This was only possible because of the Tigris River, which is now under threat by the construction of Ilisu Dam, on a region that once was the beginning of civilization. It was also here in Hasankeyf were Islam set its roots in Anatolia, making the region around Hasankeyf one of the most important historical sites for the Islamic world.

Many rulers and conquerors passed through Hasankeyf, which reached its peak and developed its true identity between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries under the rule of the Artuqids (1102-1132) and Ayyubids. The bridge built by the Artuqids in Hasankeyf stands as the most magnificent example of the medieval period.

Artukid Bridge-12th century, Artukid. This majestic bridge was key to the city’s success as a regional trading center. The 12 carvings of human figures on hte central pylons are intriguing examples of Seljuk art (Cevik 56). Photo by Johanna L. Rivera

When Politics meets Archeology

There have been historical sites that have been already flooded, notably the roman city of Zeugma, near Gaziantep, which was submerged by Birecik dam on the Euphrates, the city was an important center for the Romans. When the dam lake started to sink the city, with some of the “most extraordinary examples to survive from the ancient world”. Some of the world’s top restorers arrived from Italy to rescue them from the floodwaters. Now you can visit the “Atlantis” underwater city and the historical park/museum that was built which displays the ancient mosaics. The Zeugma Mosaic Museum, at a cost of 30 million dollars has a collection of the rescued mosaics. Now visitors are able to see the carefully excavated buildings and streets, just 50 yards from the lake created by the dam reservoir there is a shiny $1.5-million multi level structure constructed to protect the remains of five Roman houses.

Hasankeyf meets 9 out of 10 of UNESCO’s criteria for a World Heritage Site. Rules from the WHC say that the only legitimate entity to propose a site is a government. In this case Turkey is not interested to apply for Hasankeyf, as this will put in jeopardy the biggest hydroelectric project on the Tigris River, Ilisu Dam. Prof. Cevik puts it this way: “Despite Hasankeyf survival of several uprisings, invasions and wars, escaping the Mongolian invasion, resisting neglect and chaos during the Ilhanli Governor’s period and consequently managing to heal all its wounds,  is now facing annihilation by the Ilisu dam project. It is not only Hasankeyf that will be flooded but also our architectural and cultural tradition; our history and identity.”

Zeynel Bey Tomb, Akkoyunlu, 15th Century. This monument is a rare, if not unique example of Timurid architecture in Anatolia, with onion dome, cylindrical exterior and octagonal interior. The large Arabic calligrams in deep blue tiles, wit h the names of Allah-Mohamed-Ali, reflect the intermingling elements today associated with Sunni-Shi’a branches of Islam. Photo by Johanna L. Rivera

The area of Hasankeyf was declared an archaeological site in 1978. Yet it is threatened to be flooded by the Ilisu dam, The project is built 80 km. downstream of Hasankeyf and the dam lake will cover all of the lower city. However, a scheme for relocation/protection of the monuments against inundation has not been researched, planned or approved. The Tigris River has been diverted through tunnels at the dam site, but still no concrete plan is in place for the sites protection and conservation. The collection of structures in Hasankeyf represents a unique collection of cultural assets in good state of preservation in one place that is valuable to those living in Modern Turkey, Greece, Iran, Syria, Iraq and beyond. In addition to its cultural value, Hasankeyf is unique for its biological diversity. A 2012 study by Murat Biricik and Recep Karakan recorded 133 species of birds, 18 of which are threatened species. The value of biodiversity is protected by 1992 Convention on Biodiversity to which Turkey is a signatory.

Meet me in Hasankeyf

Together with a delegation from Iraqis from Nature Iraq and ICSSI-Save the Tigris Campaign,  and internationals working in Iraq, we joined the "3rd Hasankeyf Ingathering" hosted jointly by by Doga Dernegi, Hasankeyf Matters and Nature Iraq. The ingathering is meant to promote Hasankeyf’s potential as a world class tourism site, but most importantly, to link locals and internationals together to share ideas on how to make the issue of Hasankeyf known to the rest of the world and to present Hasankeyf as a source for scholarship, cross-cultural understanding and sustainable economic development.

On Friday night, after dinner at Hasbahce, we watched Hasankeyf Life in Limbo, a documentary by Sakae Ishikawa, that we were very honored to have with us in Hasankeyf. John Crofoot from Hasankeyf Matters presented the program for the weekend, which included a scavenger hunt, a video contest, canyon walks and documentary watching and discussions. The program also included hiking, and canyon walks, early bird watching, and art workshops with children, and drinking tea and chatting with Hasankeyf women.

Hiking is one of many outdoor activities that you can enjoy in Hasankeyf. This is just part of the view from Hasankeyf and the Tigris river from one of the canyons. Hasankeyf Ingathering, photo by Johanna L. Rivera

Exploring the town means to go back in history to visit the Ayyubids, through Hasankeyf’s Rizk and Koç mosque, Suleiman’s mosque, Zeynel Bey Tomb, hiking through its amazing canyons, and meeting the local “çoban” or shepherd, and exploring the thousands of caves carved into the limestone cliffs overlooking the Tigris River.

On a Saturday afternoon, we were invited by the village's women for a delicious dolma lunch stuffed 

grape leave and vegetables. We seated on the grass overlooking the majestuous Suleiman’s mosque dating back to the 15th century. There, we were surrounded by children playing and the silent monuments testifying to thousands of years of culture and history; we chatted about customs and traditions in Hasankeyf, talking about weddings, and traditional life.

On Sunday early morning, some woke up just before 5:00 to hike up on the canyon, to enjoy the amazing views that Hasankeyf offers, and watch the sunrise from one of the canyons, I was a bit lazy and woke up just before 6:00 for the bird watching. It was my first bird watching experience, but Evrim, our local Doga Dernegi guide made it a great one, Hasankeyf’s breathtaking views are sufficient to make anyone want to wake up early. Its quietness, its birds, its river, its cliffs, its monuments all conspire to make Hasankeyf a unique jewel, a place of peace, of joy, of happiness.

Doga Dernegi organized a bird watching, worth waking up at 5:00 am. Photo by Johanna L. Rivera

On Monday morning, over tea and pide, Fares, a Hasankeify, described the trips on the Tigris using the Kelek, the traditional boat they used to transport goods through the Tigris River from Diyarbakir to Mosul. These trips along with the traditional boats used stopped around the 1960’s, coinciding with the dam era.  Our attempts to gather the local knowledge of the river and how these trips were done are part of the The Tigris Flotilla, where we will reproduce the journey through the Tigris using the Kelek, the traditional boat used in this part of the Tigris. We will also travel with the Tarrada and the Guffa, trying to bring awareness to the threats facing these timeless waters.

Fares as he described the journeys through the Tigris on the Kalak, the traditional boat used in this part of the river. Photo by Johanna L. Rivera

Monday night, it was time to say goodbye to our new friends and to start our journey back to Iraq. My eyes watered and it was hard to say goodbye to the new-but feeling like old Hasankeyf family. After meeting Firat and his hospitality, Arif with his friendliness and a unique story for each carpet in his shop, Fares and the old river stories, and the friends at Villa Park and Artukid cafe, exploring the canyons, caves, mosques and other unique architectural jewels, it is hard to picture that the future of Hasankeyf is still uncertain. As our bus was approaching and after some bargaining, we managed to have Arif sing to us Aiche, and Ahmed and Mohamed followed with a traditional Iraqi song. The Ingathering was special  for all of us who attended, Iraqis, Hasankeyfis and of course us from all parts of the world. I liked the words of our friend John: “ I loved the send off for you guys when you boarded the bus back to Sulaymaniyah -- we were singing and dancing in the middle of the main intersection, one great big family of human beings.”

A version of this blogpost appears at the Iraqi Civil Society Solidarity Initiative website.
The work is part of the Save the Tigris Campaign in an effort to expose the dangers of Ilisu dam to the communities in Hasankeyf and the communities surrounding the Tigris River in Iraq.